FareShare Home: Spice Rack -- Food Tips

Ajwain: Thrachyspermum ammi (aka ajowan). A member of the carrot family. Ajwain is found in northern Africa, central Asia, western China and India. The seeds contain thymol (essence of thyme) but are not recommended as a substitute for thyme in western cuisine. They are used, especially in India, to flavour curries, pastries and breads (such as naan, pakora and paratha). Allspice: Pimenta dioica (aka pimento, Jamaica pepper). A member of the myrtle family. It is the dried unripe berry of a tree native to Central and South America. It got its current common name because it was thought to combine the aroma of several spices. Angelica: Angelica archangelica. The carrot family again. Originally from northern Europe. The foliage is eaten as a vegetable in Greenland and Scandinavia. The roots and seeds are used to flavour liqueurs. The young stalks are candied for decorating cakes and desserts. Be aware that, according to one of my herb books, all angelicas contain a chemical that can increase skin photosensitivity and cause dermatitis so it might be prudent to wear gloves while working with the plant; the book doesn't mention if this chemical is destroyed by cooking. Anise: Pimpinella anisum (aka aniseed, sweet cumin). Another member of the carrot family, it was first cultivated as a spice by the ancient Egyptians and from there its use has spread around the world. The seeds are used to flavour alcohols, sweets and meats. In France they coat the green seeds with a sugar shell to make a candy called 'anis de Flavigny'. Annatto: Bixa orellana (aka achiote). The pigment, found in the seeds, was used by the ancient Amazonians as a red body dye and today it has value as a food colouring by manufacturers of cheeses and butter. It is available as a paste. Asafoetida: Ferula asafoetida (aka Devil's Dung; Giant Fennel). Did that make you sit back a bit? There's more. As you might assume from part of its name it has a strong, disagreeable (foetid) smell. Yet another member of the carrot family. One of my herb books describes it as having a sulphurous odor and as being the most foul smelling member of all herbs. However, all that aside (pinch your nostrils closed if you must), it is a herb that has been used to season foods since ancient times since, if used judiciously, a little of the substance can give a very pleasant flavour to a variety of foods, notably those used in Indian cooking. Because of the presence of the sulphur compounds, which are often developed and enhanced by various methods, asafoetida can add an apparent taste of eggs, onions, garlic, meat and white truffles. This attribute has caused it to be used by a group of vegetarian people in India, the Jains, who won't even eat onions or garlic because they contain buds that might develop into new plants. According to my edition of Larousse, the Romans added it to many dishes under the name 'sylphium' or 'silphion'. "From whence does it come?" you ask. (Come on, you know you want me to tell you after all that.) It comes from the bulb of a close relative of fennel; they remove the leaves after they turn yellow, expose the top of the bulb and scrape at the wound to encourage the bulb to produce a protective sap which, as it hardens, develops the very strong sulphurous odor. Avocado leaf: Persea americana. A member of the laurel family. The leaves of the Mexican varieties of avocado have the aroma of tarragon and in Mexico they are used, after being dried and crumbled, to flavour chicken, fish and bean dishes. The leaves of varieties grown in more tropical regions apparently do not have this trait.

Basil: Ocimum basilicum. Basil, although not a mint, is a member of the same family as mints. Unlike many of its hardier cousins it is a tender, cold-hating annual. It seems hard to believe these days but about 350 years ago it was thought that the scent of basil would cause scorpions to grow in the brain; then the thinking switched and people decided it was useful in treating insect bites and stings. Hmmmmm. It was once considered a royal herb; only the king (basileus) could cut it and he had to use a golden sickle. Fortunately basil has now become a common sight in gardens and kitchens. Many varieties have been developed with widely differing flavours and aromas; some have tiny leaves on very compact globe-shaped plants, others are dark purple, some smell of lemons. One gardening source suggests planting basil around tomato plants to help repel insect pests and at the same time attract honeybees; I must admit I don't know how they sort out which insect is a pest and which isn't, unless the bees are the only insects that like the smell of basil. (By the way, tomatoes don't really rely on insects for pollination, a good shake around noon if there is no breeze usually does the trick.) Whether or not its reputed insect repelling qualities exist, there is no denying that the combination of tomatoes and basils is a winning one. Plop a basil leaf on a slice of tomato, add the teeniest pinch of salt if you wish and enjoy one of the tastiest snacks ever invented. For a pretty sandwich worthy of a caterer, lightly butter a 1-inch round of whole-wheat bread, add a slice of one of the larger cherry- type tomatoes, top with a slice of a small hard-cooked egg and crown the whole with a little basil tip tucked into the egg. If you plant your own basil, plant lots of it because many dishes require the use of large amounts of the leaves. There is another reason to plant lots of it, basil plants tend to be susceptible to a fungus that can strike quickly causing the plant stem to darken and the plant to wilt and dye within a day or two. Even if you don't have a lot of gardening space you can tuck several basil plants into hanging baskets or window boxes along with the flowers. The best flavour is found in the younger leaves and it has been found that in individual leaves the flavour varies from the stem end to the tip of the leaf. Basil can be preserved by freezing (first coat the leaves with olive oil), packing in olive oil, salting or making into pesto. It can be dried but tends to lose its strength rather quickly. Both the leaves and the flowers can be eaten; in fact, when the plant starts to put out flower buds it is a good time to pinch off the whole top and use it as this promotes the production of leafy side shoots. Bay: Laurus nobilis (aka Bay Laurel, Sweet Bay). This is an evergreen shrub or small tree from the Mediterranean where it is grown as an ornamental as well as for culinary purposes. The word 'laurel' comes from a Latin word meaning 'praise' and wreaths of laurel leaves were worn as a crown by Romans who were victorious in battles; 'laureate' means crowned with laurels as in the 'poet laureate' title given to certain poets considered worthy of the honor. The bay tree was considered sacred to the god Apollo. In the language of flowers (it was a common practice at one time to send posies composed of various flowers and greenery, each having a special meaning, as 'secret' messages), bay leaf stands for glory. Bay has a complex flavour/aroma consisting of woody, floral, eucalyptus and clove notes which make it a very useful herb to keep on hand. Fresh leaves have much more impact than dried ones but unless you are either lucky enough to be able to keep one as a houseplant or live close to some place where they are grown, the dried ones will do very well if stored in a cool, dry, dark place. If you want to try growing one, many plant nurseries sell the young plants; look for them in with the herbs; just remember to look for the proper botanical name if you can although some places may just call it Sweet Bay. There is another bay, California bay, which, though being a different plant entirely (Umbellularia californica) is of a similar flavour and aroma but the eucalyptus note is stronger. Make sure you know the source of your bay leaf as not only are other members of the laurel family poisonous but there are 'look-alikes' such as the laurel-leaf willow and the laurel-leaf cherry (leaves contain cyanide compounds like all prunus) which are not "food-friendly". Bergamot: Monarda didyma (aka bee balm, Oswego tea). This member of the mint family is native to North America. The leaves are used as a tea and the flowers can be added to salads. A hardy perennial that can be grown in the garden. Bergamot: Citrus bergamia. A citrus grown mainly in Italy. The floral- scented oil of its rind is used mainly in colognes, tobacco and Earl Grey tea. Borage: Borago officinalis. One old book on herbs written in the 1500s states that "...the leaves and flowers of borage put into wine make men and women glad and merry..." Well, whether true or not it sounds good. Borage is easily grown from seed sown directly into the garden; be warned, however, that it also self-sows and the plants will keep popping up in unexpected places in your yard for years after your first planting (voice of experience). For those interested in companion planting it is suggested that planting it with strawberries is of benefit to both and planting it near tomatoes helps to deter Japanese beetles and tomato hornworm; I've never tested the theory. The pretty blue five-petalled star-shaped flowers can be candied for use in decorating cakes, frozen in ice cubes for decorating drinks, fresh in salads and in some parts of France they are cooked as fritters. The fuzzy leaves have a taste reminiscent of cucumber and the young leaves can be used in salads; they are also used to flavour iced drinks, herbal teas and some wines. The plant has hairs on the stems which make it a bit prickly to handle so I suggest wearing gloves when you harvest it. Borage should be used in moderation as plants in this family contain alkaloids that can be poisonous. Burnet: Sanguisorbia minor {Poterium sanguisorbia} (aka salad burnet). A tender perennial which should be treated as an annual except in very mild climates, this herb was brought to New England by the early Pilgrims. The young leaves have a sharp cucumber flavour and can be used in salads, herb butter, soft cheeses and as a garnish.

Chervil: Anthriscus cerefolium. A member of the carrot family, it apparently originated in Russia and western Asia. It has a delicate anise flavour, due to the presence of estragole which is the same component that gives tarragon its flavour, which is destroyed by heat so it is best used raw or only slightly warmed much in the way parsley is used. This flavour does not stand up well to drying either so grow some in a pot if you can't find it fresh at your local market. Chives: There are two main species that generally come under the heading of chives and both are members of the onion family (alliums). Allium schoenoprasum. This is probably the one that is most commonly found in stores and market gardens. It has tubular round leaves and purple flowers, both of which are edible. The flowers make a pretty and tasty addition to salads. The plant is easily cultivated from seed and by division. It tolerates poor conditions and will grow well in containers as well as the regular garden. Tuck it in with other plants in a flower bed or border and it will be quite happy to come up year after year. It will readily seed itself so if you don't want that to happen, well, I guess you will just have to force yourself to pluck the flowers and use them in those salads I mentioned. When harvesting the leaves make sure to leave about 2 inches (5 cm) for regrowth and you will be able to use the plant all season long. Chive seeds are suitable for sprouting. I raised my eyebrows when I discovered that my copy of Larousse Gastronomique gives a brief one-line description saying that chives are a herb mainly used in seasoning and salads. I guess that covers the basics but it does seem an understatement for such a useful and versatile plant. Allium tuberosum (garlic chives or Chinese chives). This plant has flat leaves, white flowers and a mild garlic flavour. It is also easy to grow from seed and although I have found it to be not as robust in my location I have had it survive for a few years in the garden.

Cloves: (Syzygium aromaticum syn. Eugenia caryophyllata). Cloves are the dried flower buds of this tropical tree which is a member of the myrtle family. These flower buds are picked just before they open then dried. This pungent and aromatic spice came to Europe around 300AD and is mentioned as being used in Chinese medicine in about 600AD. The volatile clove oil contains the chemical eugenol. Cloves are used in potpourris, pomanders and perfumery as well as in cooking. I suspect that many of our not-so-young members may remember having clove oil applied to their gums to give relief from a toothache and there is evidence that it contains antiseptic properties. Hams are often decorated by pushing whole cloves into the surface in a decorative pattern. Comfrey: (Symphytum officinale) is a member of the borage family. This herb is included here because although the fresh young leaves were at one time recommended for use as a raw or cooked vegetable this is no longer the case due to concerns about their toxicity. Coriander/Cilantro: (Coriandrum sativum). The seeds and leaves of this member of this relative of the carrot are what is mainly used for culinary purposes; the essential oils are used in perfumery. There are two main types: the European coriander has smaller seeds and a larger percentage of essential oil while the Indian type has larger seeds and less oil. What we commonly think of as the seeds are actually husklike fruits with the seeds inside. Coriander seed is usually sold whole and should be crushed, cracked or ground just before use in order to get the best flavour. They are an important component of many sausages, including hot dogs. Those of you who are familiar with jawbreakers candy may already know that the seed in the very center is a coriander seed. The feathery leaves, usually known as cilantro, are an important flavoring agent in many Asian, Indian and Middle Eastern dishes including curries. This herb is easily grown in the home garden or in containers in much the same manner as you would grow parsley. You can start it from seed yourself or purchase some plants from a bedding plant supplier. If you are not familiar with the taste of the leaves start by adding only a very small amount to a dish that is strongly spiced otherwise you may be put off by what has sometimes been described as a 'soapy' taste and it would be a shame to miss out on the added dimension this herb can bring to many dishes. Cumin: (Cuminum cyminum). The seeds of this annual herb that is another member of the same family as carrots, have a strong flavour and have long been used to flavour dishes in Asia, India, the Middle East and Europe. They are a main component of many curries. Although its popularity seems to have dropped in most European dishes it remained a common spice in Spain from where it eventually migrated to Mexico where it is now firmly established as an important part the cuisine. It is fairly easily grown from seed in light soil and a sunny sheltered spot; it is a tender annual and needs warmth for the seeds to ripen. Curry leaf: (Murraya koenigii). This is the leaf of a small tree belonging to the citrus family. It doesn't really taste like curry. In India and Malaysia it is usually added to stews and similar dishes. Curry plant: (Helichrysum italicum). You may find this member of the compositae (same family as daisies and everlastings) for sale in the herb section of your local plant nursery. It has had some popularity for use in soups and stews because the leaves have a taste similar to curry. However, there are some questions as to its safety so if you use it be sure to only use one sprig and remove it before serving the dish. Some members of this plant do make attractive additions to gardens however. Curry powder: The curry powder sold commercially is a combination of several spices, sometimes more than 20. The hotness of any particular blend is determined by the amount of hot chili pepper that is in it. The yellow colour is from turmeric and/or saffron. Many cooks prefer to select the individual spices they feel will best compliment the other ingredients in the dish they are making. Some of the spices that can be used in a curry powder mixture are: allspice, anise, bay leaves, caraway, celery seed, chili peppers, cinnamon, cloves, coriander, cumin, curry leaves, dill, fennel, fenugreek, garlic, ginger, mace, mustard, nutmeg, pepper, paprika, poppy seeds, saffron and turmeric.

Dandelion: (Taraxicum officinale). Don't panic, you can quit reaching for the herbicide sprayer; I'm not suggesting you start growing them - yet. Mind you, in areas where water is in sufficiently short supply that there are restrictions on watering lawns maybe a person should start considering these tough-as-nails harbingers of spring. They were brought to the new world mainly from Eurasia where they were used for both culinary and medicinal purposes. If picked while very young, the bright yellow flowers make an attractive addition to a salad and have long been a familiar ingredient in home winemaking; make sure to remove all of the stem and green parts. In his book "Stalking the Healthful Herbs", the late Euell Gibbons said that he considered the newly formed flower buds removed from deep in the center of the crown while they were still white, boiled for a few minutes then seasoned with salt and pepper one of the most delicious vegetables he had ever tasted. The very young leaves can be used in salads much like other chicory but the older ones are tough bitter. The plants can be grown in beds of straw or in dark places so the leaves don't develop the strong flavour that comes as the chlorophyll is produced. The tap root can be dried, roasted and ground for use as an addition to or replacement for, coffee. Even the seeds can be eaten in times of necessity. However, do be warned that the plant is a strong diuretic; the French call it "pissenlit" or "wet-the-bed". Half a cup of chopped raw dandelion greens weighing 28 grams contains approximately 13 calories, 24 g water, 0.8 g protein, 2.6 g carbohydrates, 0.2 g fat, 21 mg sodium, 52 mg calcium, 10 mg magnesium, 111 mg potassium, 18 mg phosphorus, 0.87 mg iron, 3920 IU Vitamin A, 10 mg Vitamin C. Half a cup of boiled dandelion greens weighing 52 grams contains approximately 17 calories, 46.7 g water, 1.0 g protein, 3.3 g carbohydrates, 0.3 g fat, 23 mg sodium, 73 mg calcium, 121 mg potassium, 22 mg phosphorus, 0.94 mg iron, 6084 IU Vitamin A, 9 mg Vitamin C. Dill: (Anethum graveolens syn Peucedanum graveolens). Another aromatic member of the same family as carrots, dill is a native of southwest Asia and was used for medicinal purposes by the ancient Egyptians and the Greeks. In medieval Europe it was believed to have the power to ward off evil spells. Early settlers in North America called it "meetin' seed" because it was given to children to chew during long church sermons. Although we mostly use the seeds and leaves for culinary purposes there is a variety, A. graveolens var. sowa, that is used as a vegetable in the cuisine of India. The plant itself is an annual that can be grown from seed either in the garden or in containers; however, it does not take well to transplanting so unless you can start it in a container that can either be placed in the soil (peat pots for instance) or from which it can be removed with no root disturbance, it is best sown directly where it is to remain. If planting in the garden wait until the danger of frost is past or be prepared to provide protection as the young plants are very tender and late in the season the mature plants won't stand more than a very light frost. Dill likes a sunny sheltered location and does best in poor to average soil that is moist but well drained. There are several different strains for the gardener to choose from these days ranging from dwarf to very tall. The main culinary uses for dill today are as flavour enhancers in vegetable dishes, salads and with fish. It seems to go especially well with eggs and potatoes. A little chopped dillweed (the leaves) mixed with some cream cheese, quark or even some soft fresh goat cheese or chevre makes a lovely quick spread for bagels or crackers; put a little piece of gravlax or smoked salmon on top of that and you have a nibble elegant enough to serve at any afternoon tea or party. The ripe seeds, green-ripe seedheads and the leaves are used with cucumbers to make several types of dill pickles. To be able to use fresh dill leaves during the winter, chop them very finely and mix with water then freeze them in ice cube trays; make sure you wrap the cubes very well in plastic then seal the packages in aluminum foil before storing in the freezer or the aroma will permeate EVERYTHING (voice of experience <G>).

Fennel: (Foeniculum vulgare). Again, fennel belongs to the same family as carrots - Umbelliferae. There is only one species of fennel but there are several varieties. One of these, known as sweet fennel, is grown mainly for its seeds and ferny leaves. Florence fennel aka finocchio (Foeniculum vulgare var. azoricum) is a specialized fennel which has an enlarged leaf- stalk or bulb at the base of the stem. All parts of the fennel plant are edible but, except for the seeds, they must be used fresh. The leaves lose their flavour and aromatic properties when dried. The fennel bulb, with its pleasant licorice flavour, can be sliced and used raw in salads or sandwiches; it can also cooked as a vegetable, added to soups and stews or roasted. The seeds and leaves can be added to salads, dressings and vegetable or fish dishes. The seeds are often added to breads and other baked goods. Fennel is a tender plant and does not do well indoors so it is best treated as an annual in cooler climates. If you grow it in containers you will most likely have to be satisfied with using the fresh leaves and tender parts of the stalks because it does not readily produce the fleshy 'bulb' under these conditions, although I have had it make a weak attempt at it but the bulb was never as succulent and tender as those I find in the markets. The freshly snipped leaves are lovely when added to a salmon sandwich or sprinkled over a baked potato. As said, fennel is not one of the herbs that can be stored by drying, however you can treat it in the same way as dill: chop the leaves and tender parts of the stalk then freeze them in water in ice cube trays; once frozen you can store the cubes in securely sealed plastic bags in the freezer. According to one of my gardening books when growing fennel for the seeds you should not plant them near coriander or dill as they tend to cross-pollinate which reduces the production of the seed and also results in a less distinctive flavour. I have no idea as to the veracity of this statement since I have never, strictly by chance, grown them near each other. Fenugreek: (Trigonella foenum-graecum) This herb, whose botanical name is from the Latin for "Greek hay", is a legume and is related to beans. It is not as well-known in western cuisine as it could be but is used in several Asian and Mediterranean dishes where the plant is a native. An annual, fenugreek can be grown fairly easily in the garden as it will germinate in cold soils. The seeds are a bit bitter and a bit sweet; the aroma makes a person think of maple syrup due to the presence of the chemical soloton. The larger leaves can be used fresh but are not suitable for drying; chop up the leaves and freeze them with water in ice cube trays for use after the season is over. The sprouted seeds can also be used as long as they are not cooked; eat them as a snack or add the sprouted leaves to salads. The seeds are a component of many curry powder mixtures.

Garlic: (Allium sativum). Garlic, like its close relatives, onions and leeks, is a member of the lily family. There are several hundred varieties of garlic that are cultivated although the plant commonly sold as "Elephant Garlic" (Allium ampeloprasum) is not, in fact, a garlic but is a bulb- forming variety of leek (Allium porrum). All alliums are edible, however if you are in the habit of collecting wild garlics and onions you would do well to heed this warning: they often grow in the same places as another member of the lily family (Death Camas [Zygadenus or Zigadenus]) and in certain growth stages they can look very similar. There is a saying: "if it doesn't smell like an onion don't eat it". Garlic is known to have been used as long ago as around 3000BCE, it was found in Tutankhamun's tomb and the ancient Greeks and Romans consumed it in large quantities. Due most probably to its odiferous properties, garlic has long featured prominently in many legends, myths and superstitions. One belief was that if athletes chewed garlic it would prevent their competitors from getting ahead of them in races. Garlic has been called "The Stinking Rose". Garlic breath has been found to contain a component "methanethiol" which is also found in skunk spray. The browning enzymes found in some raw fruits and vegetables can help reduce the effect of "thiols" in the mouth so eat salads and apples; some mouthwashes also help. Each garlic clove is actually a swollen storage leaf growing around a shoot. The cloves contain less than 60% water and quite high quantities of fructose which is why they brown and burn more quickly than onions do when being roasted or fried. Different varieties of garlic contain different quantities of the sulphur compounds so there is a great deal of variation in their taste and pungency. Garlic grown in cold conditions tends to have a stronger flavour. Most commercial growers tend to choose varieties more for their yields and good storage properties than for their flavour. When garlic is stored in a refrigerator the garlicky flavour loses its intensity and the oniony flavours become more pronounced. Storing garlic in oil can be dangerous as these airless conditions encourage the growth of the botulism bacteria. Soaking it in a strong vinegar or lemon juice for several hours before putting it in the oil helps to prevent the growth of the bacteria; this must then be stored in refrigeration. Sometimes garlic that has received this acid treatment develops a bluish-green colour, apparently because of the reaction between the acid and one of the sulphur compounds in the garlic; this can be reduced by blanching the garlic before pickling it in the acid. Ginger: (Zingibar officinale). This is a tropical perennial that is grown mainly for the aromatic tuber-like rhizomes that spread just below the surface of the soil. The name comes from a Latin translation of the Sanskrit work "singabera" which means antlers and is descriptive of the shape of the rhizome. It probably originated in Southeast Asia. Ginger is very distantly related to the banana. Some other members of this family are galangal (more on this one later), cardamom and turmeric. Ginger, in its dried form, was brought firstly from Asia to the Mediterranean and from there to Europe where, in medieval times, it became one of the most important of the spices. Gingerbread dates back to medieval Europe while ginger ale and ginger beer are products of the 1800's. Although the main sources of dried ginger these days are China and India, Jamaican ginger is considered to be one of the best. Fresh ginger may be stored for 2 to 3 months in a cool dry place or it may be frozen for longer keeping. Ginger adapts reasonably well to container culture and planting a few pieces just under the soil surface in a pot kept in a sunny window can be an interesting project for youngsters. Keep the soil just barely moist and when the shoots appear keep the humidity up either by misting or placing the pot in a dish filled with pebbles so it is close to but not in the water. The pot can be moved outdoors when danger of frost is past and brought back in after summer is over. It may have a dormant period during the lower light periods of winter but, with luck and attention, should come back again later. Greater Galangal: (Alpinia galanga) and Lesser Galangal (Alpinia officinarum) are close relatives but are harsher than ginger with none of the lemony tones. Galangal is often mixed with lemon grass in Southeast Asian dishes. The growth habit is similar to ginger.

H Hops: (Humulus lupulus). Hops, interestingly, belong to the fig family (Moraceae), as do mulberry, breadfruit, jackfruit and hemp among others. The unpollinated female flowers of this fast-growing, hardy, hairy-stemmed climber, which are not showy and look a lot like immature spruce cones, play an important role in the brewing industry. There are quite a few different varieties, each with their own distinctive aroma, so brewers must experiment until they find the one which best suits their purposes. I have been given to understand that there is currently a crisis due to a shortage of hops. According to several of my reference books the young shoots that appear in the spring can be cut and cooked like asparagus but I have never tried it. The hops growing in my yard came from plants growing beside an old log homestead so I have no idea which they are but I do know they have survived many winters with temperatures as low as -50C (-55F) and little or not attention. They can be propagated by cuttings or division. The plant dies back to the roots in the winter and unless you want to end up with an almost impenetrable tangle of dead vine growth which can be a fire hazard as well as unsightly, it is a good idea to cut the dead growth back each year (of course, I suppose if you're trying to forget about that old car body in a corner of the back 40 you could let them cover it completely <G). Wear gloves while doing this as the hairs on the stems can be irritating. I often leave the old vines through the winter as a shelter against the elements for small birds but cut them down almost as soon as the snow goes and before we get into the drier spring weather. Horehound: (Marrubium vulgare) aka hoarhound, white horehound. This wooly- leafed fairly hardy perennial is a member of the mint family (Labiatae). The ancient Egyptians used a concoction made from the leaves as a cough medicine. I have felt some relief from a sore throat when I chewed one of the bitter leaves but since this plant also has other effects on the body its use for any purpose should be properly researched. Horehound can be used fresh or dried as it keeps its flavour well. Several cookbooks, including "The Joy of Cooking" contain recipes for making horehound candy, a confection that was often to be found in stores at one time and can still sometimes be found particularly where our pioneering history is being recreated. Horehound grows to a height of about 18 inches and likes a soil that is somewhat dry and alkaline with a sunny exposure protected from strong winds. It can be propagated from seed, stem cuttings or by division. Hyssop: (Hyssopus officinalis). Another member of the mint family (Labiatae), true hyssop is a European herb that was used by the Romans for medicinal and ceremonial purposes. Hyssop is one of the flavoring agents used in some liqueurs, including Chartreuse. It is said that if you plant it near your cabbages it will repel the cabbage-white butterfly. I can't say that I've seen any particular proof of that in my garden but maybe my hyssop isn't planted sufficiently close to my cabbage patch to be effective. Another claim is that if planted close to grape vines the yield will be increased but since I don't live in a great grape-growing area I can't speak to that one. One of my sources comments that hyssop has a spicy aroma with some camphor notes. The purple-flowered hyssop in my garden is spicy all right but to me at least, also has more than a hint of skunk in its scent so I have never been tempted to try adding some of the flowers to salads, sausage or fruit pies as is suggested in many of my books. Maybe all hyssops are not created equal? However, I do keep it in my garden because it is an attractive hardy perennial that can withstand dry soil and cold winters. It prefers an alkaline soil and full sun. Hyssop is best propagated by dividing an older plant rather than from seed, particularly in colder climates. The plant can grow to be about 2 feet tall and produces the purple, deep reddish, pink or white flowers on spikes. One note: several of my references say that hyssop in any form should NOT be taken internally during pregnancy. Horseradish: (Armoracia rusticana) aka redcole, stingnose. This hardy perennial member of the cabbage family comes from western Asia. Originally it was mainly used for medicinal purposes but in the 1500's the Germans and Danes started to make it a component of fish sauces. In the mid 1600's it arrived in Britain where it was also used to make a sauce which was served most commonly with roast beef. (Yum!) The plant is closely related to mustard and the tender young leaves can be used in salads in the same way. For culinary purposes the root is probably the most-used part of the plant. The roots can be dug at pretty much any time of the year that you can get a spade into the ground but you will get the newer more tender pieces later in the summer after the plant has had a chance to do some growing. As long as you leave a part of the plant behind it will continue to grow. Horseradish is one of those plants that seems able to withstand almost any conditions and neglect. It can be found around long-abandoned homesteads, in ditches and dotted across pasture land. It is propagated by seed, division and root cuttings. There is a variety of horseradish, A. rusticana 'Variegate, which has variegated leaves that are green with cream markings. I haven't come across this particular variety but in the pictures it looks like it might make an attractive addition to the garden. If you want to grow your own plant keep in mind that horseradish does have a tendency to be quite invasive. To preserve the roots you can store them in sand; wash, grate or slice and dry them; cover them in white wine vinegar. The leaves can be dried. To really bring out the pungency the raw root must be grated or the dehydrated root must be reconstituted. Too much horseradish or wasabi (a close relative) can have an impact on the system of the unwary that is every bit as dramatic as too much chile pepper. Its volatile irritants can get into the system very quickly sometimes causing a person to cough and choke. If this happens it will help to breathe IN through the NOSE which reduces the amount of irritants entering the lungs from your mouth and breathe OUT through your MOUTH which saves your nostrils from being exposed to a dose of the nasty stuff.

J Juniper berries: (Juniperus spp.). There are about 10 species of juniper, a member of the cedar family. The 'berries' are actually a cone made by the leaves or scales that change in form and grow together into a housing for the seeds. These are borne on the female plant and take three years to mature so fruit in several different stages of ripeness, from green to purplish-black in colour, can be seen on one plant at the same time. Juniper berries are best used fresh or within a relatively short time of harvest as by the end of a couple of years in storage they will have lost all their flavour. The French word for juniper is "geni�vre" and the plant gives its name to gin by virtue of the Dutch word "genever" since it is one of the main flavoring agents of that liquor as well as other spirits. A non-alcoholic version of a Bloody Mary can be made by soaking some juniper verries in tomato juice for a few days then straining into a glass. Juniper is also used to flavour meats, particularly game and poultry, as well as cabbage. WARNING: Juniper should only be used sparingly and should not be taken internally during pregnancy nor by people with kidney problems.

Kaffir Lime: (Citrus hystrix). The leaves and rinds of the fruit of this tree are important ingredients in the cuisine of Laos and Thailand (where it is known as "ma krut"). The leaves can be found in Asian groceries in many parts of North America but so far I have never seen the fruit in my area. I have found the leaves in the fresh produce section as well as in packages in the frozen food section. They can also sometimes be found in regular supermarkets. The leaves contain citronellal which gives them the distinctive lemony limey citrus flavour. They can be shredded very finely and added to stews; if used whole they must be removed from the dish before serving as they are quite tough. The next time you steam a pot of rice place 3 or 4 lime leaves on top of the rice during the cooking and they will impart a citrusy fragrance which is very pleasant and goes well with curry dishes. If you are lucky enough to find a plant you can grow it in a container of rich well-drained potting soil; it can be outdoors during frost-free periods. Keep the tree pruned to maintain a manageable size and promote a bushier growth habit with more leaves. So far I haven't found one of these plants but when I do ....

Lavender: (Lavandula sp). Lavender along with mint, oregano and other herbs, belong to the same family: Labiatae. The name comes from the Latin word "lavare" meaning "to wash" and lavender has long been used to scent soaps. The seeds and flowers are popular in sachets used to give a pleasing aroma to clothes and linens in storage. The flowers are the part of the plant that find some culinary use as they can be candied or used in some baked goods (such as shortbread) or to give an additional dimension to stews. However, they should be used only in moderation as lavender contains a chemical called coumarin which can interfere with blood clotting. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is probably the hardiest lavender as far as growing in the garden is concerned. Lavenders like full sun and an average well-drained soil; in colder areas it will be necessary to place mulch around them and give them as much snow cover as possible. Lemon Balm: (Melissa officinalis) aka Balm, Sweet Balm, Melissa and Bee Balm (although there is another herb, Mondarda didyma, which is also commonly called Bee Balm). This relative of the mints is a perennial but in harsh (North American zone 2) it should probably be treated more as an annual unless you get lucky enough to either have it seed off or provide it with sufficient winter protection to enable the root to survive. It can be propagated by seed, root division and stem cuttings. The soil should be rich, moist, somewhat alkaline and the exposure can range from full sun to partial shade. This herb is fairly easily grown and should find a place in every herb garden although if it really likes your location it will have a tendency to spread, like its minty cousins, so should be confined accordingly (if you are lucky enough to have this happen to you <grin>). Lemon balm has been used for medicinal purposes for centuries; in the 1500's the Swiss physician Paracelsus called it the "elixir of life" as he believed it to be a great restorative. For culinary purposes lemon balm is valued for its citrusy properties which are due to the presence of citronellal, citral and geraniol. The fresh or dried leaves may be used to make teas and tisanes; they can be blended with a number of other herbs and fruits as well as regular tea. Fresh leaves can be added to cold drinks, salads, jams and marmalades or they can be crystallized for decorating cakes and other desserts. It is best to use the leaves in their fresh state as much of the flavour is lost when they are cooked. Lemon Verbena: (Aloysia triphylla, syns. Lippia citriodora, Aloysia citriodora). Lemon verbena is a native of South America that was introduced to Europe by the Spanish in the 1600's. At one time in Hawaii it was used for leis and featured prominently in Hawaiian poetic literature; the Hawaiian name for it is Wapine. For culinary purposes this plant is valued for the lemony citrusy flavour and aroma of its leaves which comes from the terpene citral. The young leaves can be finely chopped and used to flavour drinks, ice cream, cakes, puddings and sauces. The more mature leaves can be infused for a tisane or herbal 'tea', either on their own or blended with other herbs; they can be infused in the same manner for finger bowls. A cautionary note: according to one source long-term use of large amounts of the leaves may cause stomach irritations. This source never elaborated on what was meant by large amounts or described the nature of the stomach irritations however, in general it is a good practice to be somewhat conservative in your use of any herbal concoction until you see how your body accepts it. Lemon verbena is a tender deciduous shrub that is only hardy in frost-free climates but luckily for those of us in colder regions, they adapt reasonably well to container culture so we can keep them indoors in cold weather and move them outdoors during our summers. Give it light, well- drained, alkaline soil and full sun. Propagate in the spring from seed or softwood cuttings. Lemongrass: (Cymbopogon citratus). This aromatic member of the grass family, Graminae, is a prominent flavouring agent in Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese cuisine which has become popular in many other parts of the world. It is perennial in dry tropical regions but should be considered an annual in most parts of the U.S. and Canada. Lemongrass is fairly easy to grow. If you can't find a plant at your local garden center try putting a couple of stems from the grocery store into a container with a little water; as soon as some roots appear at the bottom of the stem (I have had almost 100% success doing it this way) put them into a pot filled with a light potting soil and place it in a sunny location. You can continue growing it in a container or, if your summers are long, plant directly into your herb garden or even a flower bed. They make quite a good container plant and will eventually form an attractive clump. The bulbous stems should be harvested in the fall by cutting at the base just above the soil level; they can then be used fresh, dried or minced very finely and frozen. If you have a greenhouse or a sunny location in your house you can continue growing it indoors for a while although I have never managed to keep one going through the whole winter. For use in cooking only the very tender leaves and new shoots, finely chopped, should be added to soups or stews; for other dishes or beverages, bruise the base of the stems and the leaves to aid in the release of the aromatic oils then add pieces to the dish in such as manner that they can be removed before serving as they tend to be tough and fibrous.

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